What preceded

An impulsive decision led to a friend from school and I spending our summer vacation in Iceland. We wanted to try something different from the usual holiday destinations in Europe. So we booked a plane ticket and a bus pass and we set off. We quickly learned that taking the bus in Iceland means having a clear plan. There is only one bus per day, and if you get off too early you will be stuck where you are and have to hope there is a place to sleep! Luckily that only happened to us once. We decided we had to come back again. This country was so beautiful and we couldn't see enough of it from the bus, we didn't have enough freedom to move around, we wanted to go straight ahead! We decided to save for next time. But times changed, we lost touch, he started a family and the wild hair became a bit tamer. But my dream remained. In '93 I bought my first LandRover. It had to be an 88 Series III, because that was the one and only LandRover, I thought at the time, and actually still does. Keeping a 1974 Land Rover 88 running cost a lot of money and there was little left to go on holiday far away. Lots of practice on club days and a fantastic 4x4 holiday with Kangaroo showed me the possibilities and limitations of the 88. I was given a unique opportunity when I could buy a real Range Rover for a bargain price and I exchanged the 'Series III, with a heavy heart. , in for the Range.

What a difference, what comfort, what power and how expensive! Especially when it turned out that the transfer case had gone wrong. “Fortunately” there was a good alternative available, an even nicer Range Rover! After a year the money really ran out and it took a long time before I got around to a Land Rover again.

It is now 2002. I have saved some money and am looking for a Range Rover. With previous experiences in mind, I fell for the comfort. During the week I drive a modern lease car. It takes some getting used to the quirks of an old car over the weekend. Bouncing over bad roads, swaying through the indirect steering and sweating when you want to park.

Given those experiences and the expected bad roads in Iceland, it is nice that you can drive a comfortable car. Then it turns out that luxury is not a luxury, but part of a preparation! Good road behavior ensures relaxed driving, so you can get out of the car feeling fit after a long drive. Later it turns out that even more luxurious items contribute to a successful trip…

Preparing for an Iceland trip

Now that A was said, B had to follow. I realize that a crossing alone is an expensive experience, besides that, alone is alone. Sharing your experiences with others is an essential part of a journey. I didn't find anyone in my closest circle of acquaintances who had the opportunity to come along. It was now December 2002 and I wanted to make the trip in the summer of 2003. The thought arose to look for traveling companions ourselves. Maximum of four of us, was my thought. The idea arose spontaneously to set up a website, containing information about Iceland and a call for travel companions. That was a good idea. After a first timid attempt with a one-page site, I got the hang of it and creating the site evolved into a hobby in itself. I also did not forget the goal and soon there were responses with tips and questions. Time was running out, but around May I had three traveling companions, my maximum. A trial weekend in the Ardennes and some conversations were all we knew about each other. Two of them had previously traveled through South America together for six months. If you can do that, then you know what collaboration is.

The preparation

I had already started this during Christmas, through an informative visit to a LandRover Specialist and some ideas of my own, I came up with the following points:

Underbody protection, headlight protection, towing eyes front and rear, replacing shock absorbers, general technical inspection, spare material and new towing tools. An appointment was made for the details and everything would be carried out in April.

I read the sites about Iceland on the internet, but nowhere did I find it clear how good or bad the roads were. It was only at the Icelandtours fair in Utrecht that I spoke to someone who could tell me from personal experience what it is like there. He reassured me, good material is half the battle. And if you go out with a Landrover, you can hardly go wrong...

The preparation of the car took a long time, far too long. Misfortune never comes alone and bad luck followed me. It took until a few days before the boat trip that the car was ready. Stress keeps you on your toes, but I don't want to experience it that sharp again.

The crossing.

Via Askja Travel you can have your car ferried from Rotterdam with the shipping company Eimskip and fly after it yourself. That seems luxurious, but my considerations were: if you go on the boat yourself, it will cost you at least two days of sailing, and two days back again. I'm not in education so my days are limited. Even if you go via Denmark or Sweden, it takes a long time, and the kilometers you make also cost time and money (the Range runs on 1 in 6 petrol.) Although a bit simple, customs clearance and delivery are quite neatly arranged. There was even a nice printout ready-made for me, showing how to get from the port back to Central Station by public transport!

We had packed the car with all the heavy items that we would not immediately need for the first night. Tents, mountain boots, provisions, etc. that will save money later on the plane. I don't like flying, but the flight was neat and tidy. I had my GPS on the plane, which was nice. I could track exactly where we were flying, how fast and how high, and after I entered the destination Reykjavik, I also knew how long it took. You do have to sit by the window, but that goes without saying.

Finally Iceland

The arrival in Iceland is not fun, the international airport Keflavik is located in a gray, barren and unpleasant environment. From there a bus goes to Reykjavik, a trip of about 40 km, through a gloomy landscape. I just maintain that the sun does shine quite a bit and that there are much more beautiful areas than this area.

The planning was such that after arriving in Iceland we had to spend a night without a car (so without a tent, etc.) and we did that in the local StayOkay (formerly a youth hostel). Still exciting despite the preparation: would the Range Rover have arrived, and in one piece? I couldn't contain my curiosity and on our evening walk we walked to the Eimskip terminal. This is located near the StayOkay, so an ideal place. Fortunately, the car was neatly behind the fence in good condition, waiting for us to be picked up the next morning.

After a well-deserved night's sleep in the neat StayOkay, the tasks were divided. Two people take care of the luggage and two people pick up the car. That caused a problem, because the booking was made by a person other than the owner of the car. After some back and forth talking, we received the papers and neatly printed directions to the customs office. Once there, everything within walking distance, came the only official event of the entire trip: proving that you have the car papers, temporary import permit and checking your green card. Everything went very smoothly and friendly. And then happily leave the site with the car on the way to our adventure.

Road

It was discussed in advance that we would follow a general route with (photo) excursions where we wanted. The plan was to travel via the famous Geysir and Gulfoss towards Hrauneyjar, then straight through the interior to Akureyri, then east to Mývatn and, Krafla Seydisfjordur, follow the east coast and then along the south coast back to Reykjavik. Together approx. 1500 to 2000 km. We took it easy for the first two days, just took the good roads and got used to the traffic. It's barely there, but that's the treacherous part. You have hardly any reference to other road users and therefore no idea whether you are driving fast or not. In some places the road is even dangerous. There is no emergency lane, and the road is on a dike, so that if you are not paying attention, you will end up next to the road and, with a bit of bad luck, upside down.

Now acclimatized, we decide to take a route that cuts off and is shown on the map as unpaved. After we drive around the Gullfoss waterfall, we end up in the hinterland on a reasonable road that leads us into the mountains. Here we also encounter the first truly stray sheep, and even a herd of cows on our path. Riders appear out of nowhere and we stop many times along the way to enjoy the view and take photos. Gradually the terrain becomes rougher and the road worse, until it finally disappears.

Thanks to good map reading and the GPS, we return to the route and continue our path. We have been driving for more than an hour without any sign of life, until we suddenly encounter two hikers, whom we cheerfully wave goodbye to. They prefer it to us, because there isn't much shelter and the weather is getting worse. The road is probably only intended for the maintenance of the electricity pylons that run along it. We don't meet anyone else.

What was intended as a warm-up turns out to be quite a tough ride. The road gets worse and worse and in the second layer we crawl over large boulders and through deep potholes and finally we end up at our first crossing. A sign warns that you can cross here, but that it is not self-evident that where the tracks run is also the best place... After some discussion, Evert decides to take stock, rolls up his pants and explores the river barefoot in his slippers, armed with a dipstick. The water appears not to rise much higher than knee height and so we decide to ford with some trepidation. A feeling of victory washes over us when we proudly make it to the other side. A second and third crossing soon follow. The third was tricky, the underbody protection turned out to be an unnecessary luxury and the feeling that a 2-ton car is floating is quite exciting. Moreover, when you get to the other side and you have to climb a steep slope that you find exciting during an LRCH club day, you now really have to put it into practice. The trip we had planned for a few hours now lasts more than four hours and we are almost there when another river has to be crossed. Evert takes the lead again and now it is not only very deep, the water is flowing fast and there appear to be potholes and boulders hidden in crucial places. We don't dare. We cannot count on help from others, this road is probably rarely used and certainly not again tonight. It is already after eight. Consulting the GPS and map, we come to the conclusion that it would be better to return to civilization via an exit that we apparently overlooked. The bad weather does not invite you to spend the night in the tents. The road turns out to be very bad, we only progress slowly. Large boulders and potholes hinder a reasonable pace. We have now had enough of driving at a walking pace and are getting hungry. It is already after 11 p.m. and even the long day in Iceland it is now getting darker and we will need the lighting. I'm so glad I purchased the steering guard, it's a lot smoother to drive, especially when you occasionally hear a tap against the metal. When we had given up hope of reaching civilization, we found a mountain hut. Equipped with water, beds and basic cooking utensils. More than welcome. So I prepared a well-deserved meal at midnight and went straight to bed.

The next morning the world looks completely different again, beautiful surroundings and a babbling brook. Absolute silence and a watery sun. Life isn't that bad after all! We left the hut in a tidy condition (washing dishes, sweeping clean and windows properly closed). Traveled on with fresh courage and soon among the people again. Shopping for the real rough trip. After all, we want to go straight to Akureyri. In the Netherlands we had already provided cans of tuna, powdered milk, rice, noodles and pasta products. It was also useful to purchase two boxes that work like a drawer, so they can be stacked, which turned out to be very practical. As soon as you drive out of the small villages, the road becomes less pronounced. Asphalt ends and compacted gravel takes its place. In itself it is passable, but I think that is also because we drive a comfortable car, not to mention the ample ground clearance. We did the last shopping at Hrauneyjar. This is a dreary motel, with a gas station. Although there is another pump indicated on the map, we were told that this was the last pump until Akureyri! That later turns out to be true. Thus the tank is full to the brim and the two spare jerry cans are also filled. One hundred liters 1 to 6, enough to get there and back. After all, we had no idea whether consumption could increase due to bad terrain or whether we would take the wrong route, as before. Better safe than sorry!

Straight through Iceland

Soon the road becomes bad. We drive away on a kind of washboard, we are almost shaking apart. The trick is to find the right speed between progress and vibration. In the meantime, we see an ever-changing landscape. From green slopes to gray plains, glaciers on the horizon, rain showers in the distance that take on something magical due to the low sun. The aforementioned luxury turns out to be simply practical: we often get into the car wet, which is not conducive to fabric upholstery, fortunately the leather upholstery is easy to clean, and the air conditioning also does its best to keep the windows free of fog. . Around us we see vast plains, glaciers on the horizon, the Vatnajökull, Hofsjökull and the Myrdalsjökull. The weather is good, and unlike our country, it is not hazy and we can see unprecedented distances. This invites you to take photos and peer through binoculars. This is why I wanted to go straight through, there is more than the ring road! Nice to note, the motorbikes you encounter are Germans, the cyclists are Dutch, the walkers are often Americans. If you come across a Land Rover, it is almost always a Dutch person, so always wave! I especially feel sorry for the cyclist. Cycling along an endlessly bad road, coming across a small river, getting off, taking your luggage to the other side, back through the water, cycling through the water, putting your luggage back on and then discovering two hundred meters further that there is another river, and history repeats itself …

The beauty of the interior is that the banks of the rivers turn beautiful purple because of a small plant, the name of which I do not know. I was told that it is an imported plant that does better than expected in this rough climate. And suddenly the time has come, from Hrauneyjar after about 110 km we reach the Nýidalur campsite. The hut appears out of nowhere after the last bend in the road, surprisingly lovely with red roofs and the Icelandic flag in front of the door. We decide to stay here for two days and hike up Mount Hahyma to see the glacier behind it. After a day of car travel, the trip is a strenuous event, we climb from approximately 700m to the top at 1400m! Along the way buffeted by wind and rain. Once at the top we have a good view of the landscape around us. Really worth it, there isn't really a path, just posts that indicate the direction. A lot is demanded of your sense of balance. Good mountain boots are a must, because the route leads not only through thick layers of sliding moss slabs, but also through rolling lava rocks and large boulders.

After a good night's sleep, we packed up again, checked tire pressure and oil level, and left for Akureyri via a slightly different route that seems a bit more challenging on the map. The start is gloomy, the rain is pouring down, the temperature is around 8 °C, it is high summer! The road is in poor condition, every few hundred meters there are deep puddles of brown mud, which we take with great pleasure without slowing down. We now turn to the F752. A good choice, the landscape is more varied and we really have the feeling that we are on the road with the right car. More or less gradually the landscape becomes less rugged, the temperature increases and we end up in the valley that leads to Akureyri. Water flows in large quantities like countless waterfalls over the road and entire stretches of road are flooded. The view that was extensive in recent times is now obscured by green slopes on both sides. The temperature is also getting higher and the sun is breaking through. The GPS indicates that we have descended from about 800 meters to about 60 meters. We arrive in a heavenly valley, with meadows with cows, birds, flies and mosquitoes. We hadn't seen so much life in a while.

Akureyri, we're halfway there

We stay in Akureyri for a few days and do some shopping. The weather is good, and the Icelanders also recognize this as summer. The local parking attendant, yes a real city complete with parking meters, makes his rounds in shorts. The toughest part of the journey is over. We now want to travel back along the ring road on the eastern side, with several excursions inland. Via the mosquito lake Myvatn, which more than lives up to its name, we arrive at Krafla, where energy is extracted from geothermal heat amid an impressive noise and huge plumes of steam. Here is also the place where you can walk on the thin earth's crust between the blubbering sulphur-smelling pools. This is a place where many tourists come, the bus route passes here.

Further along the F863 you can take a circular walk at Leirnjúkur, also visited by tourists, but who arrive there on their own, like us or with special Iceland tours. Highly recommended, many colors of rock, fumes everywhere from the ground and powerful panoramas. It is also good to see the differences between the lava eruptions of recent times and those of the past. A paradise for geologists.

We are faced with a dilemma, do we go to Askja and back, or do we continue via Askja. The choice is because of the warning that there will be no gas station for the next 268 km. Back and forth would be exactly the same and while passing through we don't know where the next pump is. We trust that Askja will provide information about where the next stopping point will be. So on to Askja. The Askja is an attraction that many people want to go to, but you don't notice that from the route. Sometimes it seems like we really are the only ones taking this road. Narrow and deserted, crossing several rivers and a gloomy sight. When we have completed most of the journey we spend the night at the Herðubreið. It turns out that we are not the only ones after all, because the hut is fully booked and there are also several tents on the camping site braving the strong wind. When we continue the next day we encounter several coaches that squeeze through the narrow road at breakneck speed and overtake us. The other traffic is also noticeable and when you arrive at Dekragil, the last hut before Askja, it is very busy. Italians, French, Dutch, Germans, a colorful mix of nationalities. Oh, how busy it is, when you encounter two cars a day and then another twenty, yes that is busy... From the parking lot at Askja it is quite a walk to the crater over a large, pitch-black plain. Worth the effort.

F910

After that visit we decide not to take the same way back, but to go via the F910 to Brú, where there should be a pump. A good conversation with the Warden of Dekragil taught us that we would not find a pump there, but a little further in Aðalból. He also explained some tips for fording. “Go with the flow”, and “take it easy.” He is not in favor of the “bow wave”, driving calmly and not shifting gears. Indeed, that makes a big difference. The F910 is a long, easy to drive road, by Icelandic standards. Little traffic and no coaches. Although barren and vast, the landscape is constantly changing. When we arrive at Brú, we experience the same feeling as before at Akureyri, we return to a green world with meadows and plenty of life. We decide not to refuel, but to continue to Egilsstaðir with the fuel from the jerry cans. There we will do our shopping and spend the night comfortably in a school that has been converted into a guest house.

Although a small town by our standards, this is really a place with a regional function. A large supermarket with everything for sale, gas station and various other shops. Quite a hustle and bustle and after such a time with peace and quiet around you, quite pleasant.

The last stage

We have been on the road for two weeks now and have most of it behind us. The future looks a little less adventurous, but as it turns out, we were wrong. We now enter the "forest area" of Iceland. We learn that it is not the climate that causes little or no forest, but the sheep running loose everywhere. In this region it is forbidden to let sheep roam free and there is a real forestry plan. We look for the oldest tree in Iceland and at Hallormsstaðir we find the signpost showing the way and after a short walk we end up at a sturdy pine. Complete with sign showing the plant date 1938!

We move on and decide to take the shortcut via the F939. Wagon is a big word. In good weather this can be driven with any normal car, but there are a number of dangerous points. The view is really beautiful. Through the valley with green mountain slopes and babbling rivers, mountain peaks above the clouds and views that you will not soon forget. Again highly recommended! The road leads us back to the ring road at the Djúpivogur fjord. The weather is beautiful and we stretch out in the moss and enjoy the lovely sunshine. Djúpivogur is another village where there is little to do. What is striking every time is the varying construction of the houses, brightly colored roofs, turrets, pastel shades and criss-cross construction and sleek new construction, all mixed together. The ring road is easy to prepare here, but also dangerous, the road is narrow, sometimes unpaved and large dust clouds with backlight prevent you from seeing those in front and oncoming traffic. Just before Höfn there is another steep slope: 17%! The descent is especially tricky, the loose rock does not provide a certain braking distance. One of the highlights and definitely recommended is the glacial lake Jökulsárlon. Large chunks of the melting glacier flow into the ocean here via a glacial lake. It is possible to take a boat trip between the floes in a special amphibious vehicle. We were deeply impressed by the silence, vastness and volume of this breaking ice and sat quietly from the side, musing and admiring this spectacle.

We continue on the ring road, although paved and modern, driving here is also a special experience, you don't feel the need to drive fast, as you do at home in the Netherlands, there is a kind of peace and quiet. You are more likely to stop for a nice view or to take photos. We hadn't seen a waterfall for a while, so we stopped at Skogafoss for a while. As we get closer to Reykjavik there are more tourists, and this waterfall is very easy to reach. Therefore no less spectacular! If you're willing to wear a wet suit, you can get very close. The journey continues and the traffic becomes busier, the stops have their own atmosphere that has a somewhat American film-like feel. Simple cafes with a petrol pump, car wash facilities, picture postcards and tourists. Due to the bad weather we didn't feel like driving to Reykjavik to stay there for two days, so we stayed an extra day in Hveragerði. We opt for comfort and spend the night in a guesthouse. Hveragerði offers a lot of options by Icelandic standards: a library with internet, a botanical garden, various dining options and what we opted for, a beautiful hike between the hot springs. In a forgotten corner there is a Geysir spouting out of nowhere, not as big as the Strokkur, but still impressive because of its loneliness. The walk we took leads along winding paths with streams here and there, some with the warning that you can burn your hands in the hot water. The point where ice cold water meets hot water was fun. A dike was built, creating a pool behind it that had just the right bathing water temperature. Due to the bad weather we did not test the pool further, but we can imagine that in better weather this could be a wonderful break during the walk.

Parting

The last day in Reykjavik. We have arranged to return the car on Saturday instead of on working day Friday. The porter at the port area was very friendly and even offered to call us a taxi to take us to the center. No formalities, no customs, just leave the keys at the door and the car, a strange feeling. Without a car you feel a bit lost. That quickly passes when we walk through the city where you can't help but be amazed. It is a cozy town in its own way that is difficult to describe, you have to experience it. The plane leaves at seven in the morning, which seems like a reasonable time, but it means we have to get up at three. Will there be buses? Yes, that is typical Iceland, if there is a need, there is a need. A direct connection to Keflavik has been arranged, you can even pay with credit card on the bus, so saving money for the last paid promotion is not necessary. However, things are very disappointing at the airport. All flights depart right after each other and the small departure hall is packed, as are the currency exchange offices and, as if it were a taster for home, long lines everywhere.

Home again

The last action, when I have been home for a week already, is to pick up the car in Rotterdam. That caused another problem at customs. Someone somewhere wrote down my license plate incorrectly: 05 became OS, and that wasn't on my papers, so the car can't be mine! After the service attendant had handed it over to a somewhat milder lady, after more than an hour and after all my identification options and good talking and explaining, the car could be taken away. As in Iceland, the check at Eimskip in Rotterdam was smooth, although during a break, the official interrupted his lunch to check the car with a quick glance and wish me a good journey home.

A beautiful ending to an unforgettable trip.